Deep in the Upper Amazon: the first leg of amazon 2025 - São Gabriel da Cachoeira
A weathered wooden sign indicates you are in the right place
Ilha de Duraka, just outside São Gabriel da Cachoeira
On the concrete dock at Duraka, a small island village in the upper Rio Negro, a painful reminder of jungle travel etiquette struck immediately. Sitting down to put on my boots, which I had removed for the one-hour boat trip here, I neglected to check my surroundings — and fire ants wasted no time, crawling up my legs and delivering sharp bites. In the Amazon, the first rule remains constant: always be very aware of where you step, touch, and sit.
The visit to Duraka, also known locally as Camanaus, was brief and somewhat unplanned. Upon arrival, it became clear that although they should be expecting a visitor, no advance notice had been given. Nevertheless, Capitão Zeferino, the village leader — equivalent to a mayor — welcomed the interruption. With an easy smile, he recounted a trip to France where he represented Amazonian river communities. When asked about the culinary experience, his verdict was clear and immediate: “Não gostei” (“I didn’t like it”). Life along the Rio Negro offers its own culinary traditions, and foreign flavors held little appeal.
Duraka is characteristic of many Amazonian communities: colorful homes on stilts, shy children peeking from doorways, teenagers gathered under palm trees drinking cachaça, and a modest tribal council hall. During a brief tour, Zeferino introduced the village clinic, staffed by a Cuban doctor working under Brazil’s government program integrating international medical professionals into rural healthcare. Rotating one-month shifts between Duraka and Manaus, she described her post as challenging but rewarding.
Across the channel from the island, the port of São Gabriel is visible, located 28 kilometers from the town center. This port serves as the final deepwater stop for river barges transporting all essential supplies — from fuel to food — into the region. From there, trucks ferry goods along the riverbank to São Gabriel da Cachoeira.
In town, a striking sand beach stretches along the river’s edge, although erosion has exposed broken concrete and rusty rebar in several areas and there doesn’t seem to be any hurry to restore the beachfront access and no one else seems to mind. Rustic restaurant shacks dot the beach, offering sandwiches, soups, and traditional Amazonian dishes. A simple but hearty beef stew proved a standout. Ice cold beer and freshly blended açaí and even caipirinhas are readily available.
São Gabriel, with a population made up of 24 indigenous groups, officially recognizes four languages alongside Portuguese. Spanish is understood but rarely spoken; English remains virtually absent. However, Spanish speakers will appreciate conversations with the growing community of Colombian and Venezuelan immigrants works in markets and small businesses, who report that they haven’t been the subject of any discrimination on the part of the locals.
The town’s vibrant, slightly chaotic markets reflect its cultural diversity, offering an array of Amazonian fish with exotic, musical names and equally appealing fruits unfamiliar to outsiders. Strolling through these markets provides an opportunity to hear a mix of indigenous languages and observe a tapestry of faces shaped by centuries of river life. Don’t forget to buy something; it can be a bag of limão, or maracuya, or perhaps some bananas. You will be rewarded with a smile and know you are not just a tourist taking photos.
For lunch, the main meal of the day, Restaurante da Dina stands out, particularly for its pirarucu — a large Amazonian fish — baked and served over banana purée. Diners should note that the restaurant operates exclusively midday, starting at 11:30 a.m. Late arrivals will find only the remnants of the day’s offerings. They do accept credit and debit cards as well as cash.
Accommodation options are somewhat limited in this frontier town but Pousada Bavary offers clean rooms, an excellent breakfast, and a tranquil atmosphere, albeit — or because of it being — somewhat isolated from the town’s commercial areas. Taxis are inexpensive, however (approximately 5 reais) and readily available.
From the nearest international airport, Manaus’ Eduardo Gomes, travelers can reach São Gabriel de Cachoeira via Azul’s recently inaugurated one-hour flight from Manaus, operating several times a week, or by boat — a multi-day journey — the former is recommended for those seeking efficiency.
Spending the first days of this 2025 Amazon journey in São Gabriel offered a window into a lesser-known corner of Brazil’s immense northern frontier — a region where tradition, resilience, and natural beauty endure far from the modern rhythms of the country’s urban centers.